Mold putty for lead

Mold putty for lead

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Item Must enter code in cart to receive discount. Pin this product on Pinterest. Share this product on Facebook. Share this product on Twitter. This easy-to-use kit uses two-part silicone and mold-making rubber.Forums New posts Classifieds Gallery Search forums.

Local Knowledge. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. Log in. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Making molds for pouring lead. Thread starter SurfGrub Start date Dec 28, SurfGrub Newbie. Aug 13, 23 0 0 Vista Ca.

So over the last couple of days I have been working on making my own molds. I started small with a 3oz jig. The first attempt was with Bondo the mold on the right the mold came out great, but the plug was destroyed removing it from the mold. The first pour was perfect besides the fact the holes had to be drilled out a little. The second pour the mold popped there was an air bubble just under the surface this pretty much ruined it.

So I decided to go a different route and make a mold out of Durams water putty but used the jig from the first pour for a plug. After a day of drying I did some minor clean up and baked it at F for an hour. Then did a pour it came out okay, not nearly as clean as the first one, but I think that is just a copy of a copy thing after the second pour the mold developed a crack, I think this was from me tapping it against the table to get the jig out.When it comes to casting lead, only one kind of silicone may be used for your mold.

This is a particular kind of heat-tolerant silicone that is used with metals that have relatively low melting points, such as tin and lead. Although the process for making it is very similar to that of ordinary mold making silicone, you should never confuse the two.

Many companies advertise their silicone as being temperature tolerant, but check the temperature range of their product. It may only go up to F or so while lead has a melting point of Lay three layers of newspaper over your work area and don a pair of gloves and a respirator. Create a flat bed of plasticine 4 inches longer and wider than the dimensions of your prototype.

Amazing Mold Putty Kit, 2/3 lb.

Lay your prototype on top of the bed, with detailed side facing up. Check the base to make sure there are no holes or unfilled seams. The wall needs to join seamlessly with the bed.

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Coat the face of your prototype with mold release. Mold release can be one of several substances, depending on what your prototype is made from. Use liquid soap if the prototype is made of cement, porous stone, plaster, or clay.

Use liquid wax if it is made of wood or glass. Or, for the best result, use a mold release made by the same company that made your silicone.

Metal, smooth stone, resin, and terra-cotta do not need mold release. Set a pair of mixing cups next to the pair of bottles that came with your silicone kit and label the cups A and B with a marker. Silicone mold kits come with two bottles of chemicals. When mixed together, these chemicals react to each other and begin to harden into silicone.

Pour portions of one bottle into cup A, and part of the other bottle into part B. The ratio is usually 1 to 1, but some silicones have a ratio of 10 to 1. Check the instructions that come with your silicone to find out which yours is.

Pour the contents of both cups together into a third cup. Mix them together with a mixing rod for one full minute, or until the mixture becomes an even color.

Pour the mixture over your prototype until the wall is nearly full. Make sure there is at least one inch of silicone above the highest point of your prototype. Allow the silicone to harden for 24 hours. Peel the plasticine off of the back of your prototype and pop the prototype out of your mold. Rinse the mold in a sink to wash away any remaining mold release. Uncured silicone is toxic to humans. Do not expose your skin to it and do not inhale the fumes.

Keep it away from children and pets and work in a ventilated area. Do not attempt lead casting if you are inexperienced. Lead is toxic, and hot metal is dangerous to work with. If you are new, work with it only under the close supervision of someone who is skilled in casting.What are the differences between these brands and should you choose one brand over the other?

Silicone Rubber Mold Putty is a platinum-cure two-part mold making material that comes in the form of two component putties that you mix together by hand to form a molding putty. You then shape this material over or around an object that you want to copy.

The material will then cure to form a durable, flexible mold exactly duplicating the object you shaped it around. Silicone Putty Molds are easy to make, durable, food safe, and you can bake food or polymer clay in them. I chose to compare Amazing Mold Putty and EasyMold because both brands are readily available in my local craft stores and online.

These brands are the ones I see most commonly recommended in online polymer clay forums and groups. In fact, this comparison was prompted by one of these discussions. Someone asked about the best brand. So I bought a fresh box of each and put them through their paces, side by side. Hey, Katie…now we know!!

Container A holds a white putty and container B holds a yellow putty. A short instruction sheet is included, written in English. The instructions are simple. Just mix equal amounts of Putty A and Putty B by hand until there are no color swirls remaining. This should take less than a minute. Then shape the putty around the item to be copied, making sure to take less than two minutes. The open time workability time is a total of three minutes and the demold remove the mold from the object time is minutes.

Both times can be increased somewhat by lowering the temperature or decreased by increasing the temperature. As an aside, many manufacturers of silicone molding material also make casting resins. The instruction sheet is quite comprehensive and gives lots of good information in English, Spanish, and French.

Just as with Amazing Mold Putty, the open time is three minutes, the demolding time is about 25 minutes, and the molding process is identical. I found no difference whatsoever in how they mix together and are used to mold an object.

Both are easy to mix in your hands and leave a slight oily residue on your fingers. You do not need to use a scale or measuring spoon. After curing, I found that both putties created an excellent mold which faithfully reproduced fine detail. EasyMold does create a mold that is stiffer and less stretchy than Amazing Mold Putty. Amazing Mold Putty was quite stretchy, but it really took quite a bit of strength to stretch the EasyMold very far.

When I tried to tear each sheet, I could not tear the Easy Mold with my hands but the Amazing Mold Putty snapped in two after a couple of tries. The instructions for EasyMold warn that there are substances which can interfere with curing such as sulfur, tin, and stearate. However, I found that this is a known factor for all platinum-cure RTV silicone rubber mold putty and it is, indeed, mentioned in the FAQ on their website.

mold putty for lead

Note, this may be an issue for you when molding rubber stamps as some have sulfur in them.That's right. I am about to change your mold-making technique forever. This simple way of silicone mold-making will have you wanting to make casts of all your trinkets and toys. If you are looking to use this mold making technique to do life-casting or food casting, these molds are not skin or food safe.

Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

mold putty for lead

By mixing a high-concentration of dish soap with water in a bowl, one is actually making a catalytic bath for your silicone. This is by no means an exact science, I use blue dish soap because it allows me to see how much I have added to a water bath, I approximate that I used 4 oz.

Cut off the tip of the silicone caulk tube, and set it in the caulking gun. Unload enough silicone to surround the desired object, into the bath.

While keeping your hand submerged in the dish-soap catalyzing bath, gently clump the string of silicone together. Form it into a ball, and slowly massage it. Fold it, stretch it out, and work it very much like one would knead dough. When it begins to become a bit less malleable, and stiffen, it is time to sink your positive into your material.

In this case, Mike helped me, and we used his dinosaur, Jesus. The best way to make sure your mold is watertight is to add a kind of thick-ish layer of silicone to the surface area of your object. Also, I have left a considerable amount of the dinosaur uncovered, as I am only casting half of this figure. You want to make sure you can still wiggle your figure out of your mold, without any of it getting caught, otherwise it can be very tricky to extract once your mold has set.

It will take about an hour for a full cure of your mold, before you can use it.

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Allow your object to remain in the mold while it cures. When the mold is no longer tacky to the touch, and feels rigid, gently remove your positive. We kept this mold on top of the fridge, and put a bit of soapy water down on the plate so that the silicone didn't meld with the paper plate.

World's Easiest Silicone Mold.

Also, this part smells awful. Make sure you do all this in a well-ventilated space. We made a sparkly rendition of Jesus with clear casting resin and glitter.

When the resin began to gel we set three LEDs inside of him. Behold the sparkliest light up dinosaur in West! This project uses affiliate links that help me make more awesome DIY projects and tutorials - thanks for your support! In your ingredient list I think you need to include that. Reply 1 day ago. The vinegar smell is from the silicone setting. Acetic acid is a byproduct of the setting reaction. Vinegar is acetic acid. So yes Question 1 year ago on Introduction.

Answer 1 day ago. Only if they have a melting point below degrees.By robalo01July 18, in Wire Baits. The Amazing Mold Putty will handle temperatures above F but is not recommended for food above those temperatures. To provide the best mold life and the best detail reproductions when pouring low melt metals into your mold, it is highly recommended to preheat the cured mold in the oven to bring it up to a similar temperature before pouring the molten metal into the mold.

This prevents the metal for solidifying as soon as it touches a cold mold and prevents a quick skin from forming. So preheat the Amazing Mold Putty mold to achieve more consistent castings and a longer mold life. I don't see in the website where the gt platinum cure silicone is recommended for High temp.

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I am very impressed at the moment. I did 2 molds for 2 different baits and I poured times out of each one and they are both fine and show no signs of wear. The baits are nice and clean. I have no need to pour out of them for a while but I feel I can get several hundred more pours. I must mention that I pour and then let the molds cool down to room temp before I pour again.

I have been pouring for a long time and have limited myself to the molds available but now I don't have to wait on new molds to come out or pay for custom molds. I can now copy any bait on the market or create my own with incredible detail. If you call them, they will steer you in the right direction.

Do-It Lead Molds

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Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Wire Baits Search In. Recommended Posts. Report post.You would also be able to use this method to make waxes which you then cast using investment and more conventional metals gold, silver, etc.

The pictures of pouring are from when I molded an aluminum flashlight reflector, and the mold pictured in the last step and this step is one of my ring molds. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. You really don't need all that much stuff to make a mold. A mold that yields incomplete castings can be somewhat remedied by cutting air vents, but at the beginning just try to place your sprue in a logical spot e.

In my experience a good configuration is to put a large mass at what will be the bottom of the finished mold. This is also extremely crucial and needs to be done right.

DIY: Cheap and Easy Mold Putty

Because of our lack of vacuumability, I do things the cheap easy way. First, mix up your mold rubber. The best choice here in my opinion is to use a silicone RTV rubber, because silicone sticks to pretty much nothing but itself. As I mentioned earlier, you can use urethanes, but they always require mold release. They stick to everything. I use a product called Mold Max 60, because it contains iron oxide and other additives that drastically increase the lifespan of the mold when it comes into contact with hot metals.

This particular product can withstand temperatures up to about five hundred degrees Fahrenheit. If you're only planning on cold casting resins, plasters, and suchthere are tons of different silicones on the market that you can try out and see which ones work for you.

mold putty for lead

This will help prevent any uncured spots in your final mold. Now comes the important bit. Make sure your part is firmly secured in place within your mold box with the sprue, but nothing else, touching the base of your mold box.

Take your mixed mold rubber enough to completely cover the part with about half an inch of material and slowly pour it into your mold box in a threadlike stream, at the lowest point of the mold. This should pop any large bubbles trapped in the liquid rubber during the mixing process. If you have any left over rubber, try to use it instead of just letting it cure in the mixing cup. It's usually a good idea to have a small part on the side ready to be molded in case your calculations were slightly over which, of course, is always better than being under.

After your mold is filled to the height you need it, tap the whole thing on the table a few times to help any errant bubbles dislodge themselves from your part and float up to the top. Now let the mold cure in peace for a day or two, whatever your manufacturer recommends. Unfortunately, I couldn't snap any pictures of this because we humans are notorious for having only two hands, and both are necessary for this process.

However, it's pretty easy to do, and you should be able to follow along with the written instructions. If you're still having trouble visualizing how to do this, there are some rather good instructional videos on Youtube. Using a scalpel, X-Acto knife, or something similar, carefully cut the mold in half.

For the first few cuts on the outside of the mold, move your hand in a squiggly motion so you end up with a wavy edge, which "keys" the mold together when reassembled, and helps with realignment. Now all you have to do is pull your part out and you're done! You've now got a completed mold you can use to your heart's content. When I try to cast a detailed model in tin or pewter in RTV60 silicone, the metal will not flow into the detail properly.

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It always comes out looking kinda flattened, like the surface tension of the silicone is repelling the liquid metal. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? To ggI don't know if it's just me being stupid but could you explain how you got the ring shape in the mold, from the pictures and how you explained it, i cant quite figure it out and was wondering if you wouldn't mind helping me out.

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Again i don't know if it's just me or not. Thanks Daniel. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction.